🔧 Comparison
Corded vs Cordless Angle Grinder UK
A corded angle grinder still makes more sense for most UK workshops, because it holds its full power for as long as you keep the trigger down and it costs less per watt of motor. A cordless grinder earns its place the moment your work moves away from a socket, whether that is a gate at the end of a drive or a wing panel in a cold garage. If you want just one machine, buy corded first, unless you already own batteries from a platform such as Makita LXT, DeWalt XR or Bosch.
The short version
- A corded machine gives you constant power, so long grinding and heavy cutting sessions never slow down halfway through.
- A battery grinder is the only sensible choice when the job is nowhere near a socket, and the DeWalt DCG407N is the pick for regular site use.
- Angle grinders drain a battery faster than almost any other 18V tool, so runtime under load matters far more than the number on the pack.
- Bare cordless grinders look cheap until you price two batteries and a charger, which usually costs more than the tool itself.
- Whichever type you choose, the disc must be rated for the machine's no-load speed, and the guard stays on. See our guide to grinder disc types before you buy discs.
The quick comparison
| Model | Type | Motor | Disc | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bosch GWS 750 Professional | 240V corded | 750W | 115mm | Bench grinding and cutting steel |
| DeWalt DWE4036-GB | 240V corded | 750W | 115mm | All-round corded cutting |
| Makita GA4600/2 | 240V corded | 850W, variable speed | 115mm | Stainless steel and finishing work |
| Makita DGA504Z | 18V LXT, bare | Brushless, 8,500rpm | 125mm | Cordless all-rounder |
| DeWalt DCG407N-XJ | 18V XR, bare | Brushless, 9,000rpm | 125mm | Frequent site and vehicle work |
| Bosch GWS 18V-7 | 18V Professional, bare | Brushless | 125mm | Anyone already on Bosch batteries |
| Einhell TC-AG 18/115 Li Solo | 18V Power X-Change, bare | Brushed | 115mm | Occasional jobs on a budget |
Is a corded angle grinder more powerful?
Yes, and not by a small margin. A 240V corded grinder draws 750W to 1,100W straight from the mains, and it keeps drawing that figure until you let go of the trigger. A battery grinder runs from a pack that holds finite energy, so its motor is managed to protect the cells from overheating. An 18V 4.0Ah pack holds roughly 72 watt-hours, which means a machine pulling 700W would flatten it in about six minutes on paper, before you account for heat, inverter losses and the extra drag of a dull disc. That is why the cordless machines get through discs and batteries so quickly.
The gap shows up in how you work rather than whether the tool can do the job. A corded Bosch GWS 750 Professional will happily run a wire brush for twenty minutes without fading, which is what you want when you are cleaning up a welded gate frame. A brushless cordless machine will do the same task and then ask for a fresh pack. For short cuts, tack welds and quick dressing, the battery tool is just as capable.
What a cordless grinder buys you
Freedom from the lead is the obvious benefit, and it matters more in the UK than the spec sheets suggest. Domestic 240V tools need a sensible RCD, and 110V site tools need a transformer and an extension run that has to be dragged around with you. A cordless grinder removes all of that, so you can cut a padlock off a shed door, dress a fence post at the bottom of the garden, or work on a car in a garage with no sockets. The DeWalt DCG407N-XJ and the Makita DGA504Z are both brushless 125mm machines, and brushless motors are worth the premium here because they run cooler and squeeze more work out of each charge.
Two things to accept before you buy one. First, you are buying into a battery family, not just a tool, so the machine is only as good as the packs you own. Second, an angle grinder is one of the hardest tools to run on a battery, so a pack that lasts all day in a drill will not last long in a grinder. Keep a charged spare and rotate them, because heat is what kills lithium packs in workshop tools.
The battery platform question
This is where the price gap actually sits, and it is the reason the cordless option looks cheaper than it is. Corded grinders arrive ready to work and include the cable, the guard and usually a couple of discs. Cordless grinders sold as bare units, which includes the Makita DGA504Z and the DeWalt DCG407N-XJ, arrive with nothing to power them. If you already own Makita LXT or DeWalt XR packs from a drill or an impact driver, the bare tool is excellent value and adds nothing to your bench you have to charge separately.
If you own no 18V batteries at all, then price the kit version, or the tool plus two packs and a charger, before you compare anything. If your other tools are on a different platform, the honest answer is that a corded grinder costs less than a single good battery, and it will be working in ten years when those packs are long gone. Anyone starting from nothing with occasional DIY jobs should read our cordless angle grinder roundup to see what the platforms offer before committing.
Disc size and speed
Corded grinders in the UK are usually 115mm, while most 18V cordless models are 125mm. The difference is small and both spindles are M14, so a 115mm disc fits a 125mm machine as long as its speed rating is high enough. The rule that catches people out is the opposite direction. You can always fit a smaller disc than the guard allows, but you must never fit a disc rated below the machine's no-load speed, because a disc that shatters at 11,000rpm will send fragments at face height. Check the number printed on the disc against the rpm on the tool's label every time you swap one.
Disc choice also changes the power you need. A thin cutting disc asks little of the motor, while a grinding disc or a wire knot brush loads it hard and continuously. That is the point where a corded tool feels comfortable and a cordless one starts to show the strain. Our breakdown of grinder disc types covers which disc suits which job, and it is worth five minutes before you spend money on a set of the wrong ones.
Safety: where the two genuinely differ
Both types throw sparks, grit and fragments, so eye protection, a face shield, ear defenders and gloves apply to either one. The differences sit in how each machine fails. A corded grinder keeps its torque when a disc binds, which means a kickback arrives with full force, so you want a firm two-handed grip, the side handle fitted, and a working RCD on the supply. Cable management matters too, because a lead trailing across a cut is its own hazard, and that is one problem a cordless tool simply does not have.
A cordless grinder fails differently. As the pack drains, the motor slows and the disc stops cutting properly, which tempts you to push harder and lean on the tool. That is when the disc wanders and grabs. If you also weld, an auto darkening helmet with a grinding mode is a practical addition, and our welding helmet comparison explains the shade ratings. Whichever machine you use, keep the guard on, position it between you and the sparks, and never remove it for a cut that is awkward.
Which one to buy: three honest scenarios
If you cut and grind metal at a bench most weekends, buy corded. A 750W to 850W 115mm machine such as the Makita GA4600/2 or the DeWalt DWE4036-GB costs less than a cordless kit, never runs out, and the variable speed dial on the Makita makes it the better choice for stainless steel and finishing work.
If your work is on vehicles, gates, fences or anything more than a few metres from a socket, buy cordless. Pick a brushless 125mm machine on the battery platform you already own, and buy the bare tool if you have packs. The Bosch GWS 18V-7 makes sense for Bosch users and the Einhell TC-AG 18/115 Li Solo is the cheapest sensible route into cordless grinding for occasional jobs.
If you cannot decide and you are starting from zero, buy a corded grinder and put the money you save into discs, a face shield and a proper bench set up. A corded grinder is the tool that leaves you free to choose your battery platform later, once you know which other tools you actually reach for. For anyone also building out the rest of the workshop, our beginner guide to welding covers the metalwork tools that pair with a grinder, and the bench grinder comparison covers the fixed machine that sits behind it.
Frequently asked questions
Is a corded angle grinder better than a cordless one?
For workshop work, yes. A corded grinder gives you 750W or more continuously and never asks for a recharge, so long grinding sessions and heavy cutting stay consistent. A cordless grinder is the better tool only when the job is away from power, or when you already own batteries and want to avoid running a lead.
Can I use a 115mm disc on a 125mm grinder?
You can, because both use the same M14 spindle and a smaller disc fits inside the guard. The disc's speed rating still has to equal or exceed the grinder's no-load rpm, which is printed on the tool's rating plate. Never fit a larger disc than the guard is designed for, and never run a disc above the speed limit printed on its label.
What wattage do I need for cutting steel?
A 115mm grinder of 700W to 900W handles standard steel box section and angle iron without straining, and that covers most of the corded models sold in the UK. Step up towards 1,100W or more if you spend your time on thick plate, heavy wire brushing or long grinding runs where the motor would otherwise get hot.
How long does a cordless grinder run on one battery?
Treat it in minutes of hard work rather than hours. An 18V pack holds a fixed amount of energy, and an angle grinder draws a large share of it, so cutting or grinding under load empties a pack far quicker than drilling does. Brushless motors and sharp discs are what stretch that time, and a charged spare is the practical answer.
Do I need a variable speed grinder?
Variable speed helps when you are doing more than cutting. Running a wire brush, a flap disc or a polishing pad at full speed burns the material and throws more debris, so the ability to dial the rpm down makes those jobs cleaner. If you only ever cut steel, a single speed machine does the job perfectly well.
Are cordless angle grinders as safe as corded ones?
Both are safe when used properly, and each has one characteristic risk. Corded machines keep full torque during a kickback and come with a lead to manage, so the supply needs an RCD and the cable needs keeping clear of the cut. Cordless machines slow down as the pack drains, which encourages pushing the disc harder than it wants. Eye protection, a face shield, ear defenders, gloves, the side handle and the guard apply to either type.
Products mentioned in this guide
- Bosch GWS 750 Professional 115mm Angle Grinder (240V, 750W)
- DeWalt DWE4036-GB 115mm Angle Grinder (240V, 750W)
- Makita GA4600/2 115mm Angle Grinder (240V, 850W, variable speed)
- Makita DGA504Z 18V LXT Brushless Angle Grinder (125mm, bare unit)
- DeWalt DCG407N-XJ 18V XR Brushless Angle Grinder (125mm, bare unit)
- Bosch GWS 18V-7 Professional Angle Grinder (125mm, bare unit)
- Einhell TC-AG 18/115 Li Solo Angle Grinder (115mm, bare unit)
How this comparison was put together: the specifications above come from manufacturer data and the retailer listings for each model, and the judgements about corded against cordless are based on how the two power sources behave under load. This is a specification comparison rather than a record of timed use of every machine.
Last reviewed: September 12, 2026 · Contains affiliate links