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Can You Drill Through Metal With a Hand Drill? UK Guide

Q: What drill bits do you need for drilling metal?

Use HSS (High Speed Steel) bits for mild steel and aluminium. For stainless steel and harder metals, use cobalt HSS-Co bits with 5-8% cobalt content. Never use wood drill bits on metal - the brad point dulls instantly and the flute geometry can't clear metal swarf.

Person using a cordless hand drill on a metal workpiece in a workshop

Yes, you can drill through metal with a standard hand drill - including a cordless. The key is using the right drill bit, keeping the speed low, and not forcing it. We've compared cobalt and HSS bits, tested the technique on mild steel and stainless, and put together this step-by-step guide so you get clean holes without snapping a single bit.

James Walker

Writer · Updated August 30, 2026

🔑 Key Takeaways

Any 18V cordless or mains hand drill can drill through mild steel and aluminium - cobalt bits and slow speed are what make the difference, not drill power.
Use cobalt HSS-Co drill bits for stainless steel, standard HSS for mild steel and aluminium. Never use wood bits on metal.
Keep speed between 500-2500 RPM depending on metal type. Blue swarf or burning smell means you're too fast.
Apply cutting fluid for anything over 6mm thick or when drilling stainless - it extends bit life and produces cleaner holes.

Most people assume drilling metal requires a drill press, a workshop full of clamps, and years of practice. The reality is simpler. A standard cordless hand drill - the same one you use for putting up shelves - can drill clean holes through mild steel, aluminium, and even stainless steel. What changes is the bit you use, the speed you run at, and how much patience you have.

This guide covers the technique, which bits work on which metals, and the mistakes that snap bits and ruin workpieces. If you're choosing drill bits for metal for the first time, start here.

What Type of Metal Are You Drilling?

The metal type determines everything else - bit material, speed, pressure, and whether you need cutting fluid. Here's the short version:

Mild steel (sheet steel, box section, angle iron) is the easiest. Standard HSS bits work well, and cutting fluid isn't essential for thin material under 3mm. This is the metal most DIYers encounter when fixing brackets or building workshop furniture.

Aluminium drills easily but clogs bit flutes - the swarf sticks and builds up, which can seize the bit. Peck drilling (pulling the bit out regularly to clear swarf) solves this. Standard HSS bits work fine.

Stainless steel is harder and generates more heat. This is where cobalt bits earn their price. Stainless work-hardens if you go too slow or let the bit rub without cutting. Cutting fluid is strongly recommended.

Cast iron drills cleanly because the swarf breaks into small chips rather than long strings. The main risk is the brittle material cracking if you clamp it wrong.

The Right Drill Bits for Metal

This is where most people go wrong. Using the wrong bit type is the number one cause of failed metal drilling - not drill power, not technique, wrong bit.

HSS (High Speed Steel) bits are the baseline for metal drilling. They handle mild steel, aluminium, copper, and brass without issue. For occasional metal work, a decent HSS set is all you need. The UK Drills 25 Piece Cobalt Set includes both cobalt and HSS options across the 1-13mm range.

Cobalt HSS-Co bits contain 5-8% cobalt, keeping the cutting edge sharp at higher temperatures. This matters on stainless steel where standard HSS dulls quickly. The Milwaukee HSS-G Red Cobalt Set is the benchmark - split-point tip starts without a centre punch. For dedicated stainless work, the Bosch PRO Stainless Steel Set is purpose-built for that metal.

Titanium-coated bits look impressive but the coating wears off quickly on metal. Spend the same money on proper cobalt bits instead.

Wood bits on metal? Absolutely not. The sharp brad point will dull instantly on metal, and the flute geometry can't clear metal swarf. You'll ruin the bit and get a wandering, oversize hole.

Speed and Pressure: The Two Variables That Matter

Get these wrong and you'll burn through bits, overheat the workpiece, or snap the bit mid-hole. Get them right and metal drilling feels almost as easy as drilling wood.

Speed (RPM): Metal needs slower speeds than wood. The general rule - the harder the metal, the slower the speed:

Mild steel: 1500-2500 RPM
Aluminium: 2500-3500 RPM (it's softer, so higher speed works)
Stainless steel: 500-1000 RPM (slow and steady)
Copper and brass: 2000-3000 RPM

Most cordless drills don't show RPM directly. Use the speed selector - position 1 (low speed, high torque) for stainless and thick steel, position 2 (high speed, lower torque) for aluminium and thin mild steel. If your drill has a variable speed trigger, ease into it rather than pulling full throttle.

Pressure: Let the bit do the work. Press too hard and you'll overheat the bit, glaze the cutting edge, or snap it. Press too lightly and the bit rubs without cutting, which generates heat without making progress. Aim for steady, moderate pressure - you should see continuous spiral swarf coming off the hole. If the swarf turns blue or you smell burning, back off the pressure and slow down.

Step-by-Step: Drilling Metal With a Hand Drill

1. Mark and centre-punch. Mark the hole position with a scriber, then hit it with a centre punch. The dimple stops the bit wandering. On stainless steel this is essential - the work-hardening surface will deflect a spinning bit without a starting dimple.

2. Clamp the workpiece. Hold the metal firmly in a vice, with G-clamps, or bolted to a bench. Drilling loose metal is dangerous - when the bit grabs, the workpiece spins and can cut your hand. Back thin sheet with scrap wood to prevent bending as the bit pushes through.

3. Start slow. Place the bit tip in the dimple, start at low speed to establish the hole, then increase to the correct RPM. For holes over 6mm, drill a pilot hole first with a 3-4mm bit to reduce force and keep the hole accurate.

4. Apply cutting fluid. For mild steel over 6mm and all stainless steel, add cutting fluid. The Action Can CT-90 Cutting Fluid is the standard choice in UK workshops - a few drops makes a noticeable difference to hole quality and bit life.

5. Peck drill. Every few seconds, pull the bit out to clear swarf, then push back in. This is critical on aluminium (where swarf clogs flutes) and deep holes in any metal. Continuous drilling without clearing causes the bit to bind and snap.

6. Break through gently. As the bit breaks through the far side, reduce pressure. The bit can grab the exit burr and jerk. On sheet metal, the thin material can wrap around the bit.

Common Mistakes That Snap Bits

Going too fast. Blue swarf, a burning smell, or a discoloured bit tip all mean excessive heat. Drop to the next speed setting and ease off pressure.

Using dull bits. A blunt bit requires more force, generates more heat, and is more likely to snap. Cobalt bits from brands like Sealey hold their edge much longer than budget alternatives.

Not clamping the workpiece. A loose piece of metal will spin when the bit catches - a genuine safety hazard. Even if you think you can hold it steady, clamp it.

Skipping the centre punch. Without a starting dimple, the bit walks across the surface before it bites. Two seconds with a centre punch saves the whole job.

Forcing the bit through. If the bit isn't making progress, check speed, sharpness, and swarf clearance. Forcing a stuck bit is how most bits snap.

Drill Power: Do You Need a Bigger Drill?

A 20V cordless drill handles most metal drilling tasks a home DIYer encounters. For mild steel up to 6mm and aluminium up to 10mm, even a compact 18V drill has plenty of power. The Makita 18V Combi Drill is a solid example - enough torque for metal work while light enough for overhead drilling. For thick steel plate or large holes in stainless, a mains-powered drill or drill press gives consistent torque. Our 18V drill buying guide covers what specs matter for mixed-material work.

Drilling Stainless Steel: The Hard Mode

Stainless steel behaves differently from mild steel because it work-hardens. If the bit rubs without cutting - too slow, dull bit, not enough pressure to engage - the metal hardens under friction and becomes harder to drill. Keep the bit cutting at all times: moderate speed (500-1000 RPM), steady pressure, sharp cobalt bits, and cutting fluid. If you need to stop, stop completely - don't let the bit idle against the surface. The Milwaukee Red Cobalt range targets stainless and hard metals with a split-point tip that starts without walking.

Safety When Drilling Metal

Metal swarf is sharp - wear safety glasses always. Remove work gloves when operating the drill (loose gloves near a spinning chuck are an entanglement risk). Keep the work area clear of shavings - they're a slip hazard. After drilling stainless or thick steel, the bit and workpiece will be hot. Give the metal a minute before handling it bare-handed.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you drill through metal with a cordless hand drill?

Yes. Any 18V cordless drill or mains-powered hand drill can drill through mild steel and aluminium with the right bit and technique. Stainless steel and hardened metals need cobalt bits and slower speeds, but a standard hand drill handles them too.

What drill bits do you need for drilling metal?

Use HSS bits for mild steel and aluminium. For stainless steel and harder metals, use cobalt HSS-Co bits with 5-8% cobalt content. Never use wood drill bits on metal - the brad point dulls instantly and the flute geometry can't clear metal swarf.

What speed should I drill metal at?

Slow. For mild steel, aim for 1500-2500 RPM. For stainless steel, drop to 500-1000 RPM. Aluminium tolerates higher speeds around 3000 RPM. If you see blue discolouration on the swarf or smell burning, you're going too fast.

Do I need cutting fluid to drill metal?

For mild steel and aluminium, cutting fluid helps but isn't always essential for thin material. For stainless steel and anything over 6mm thick, cutting fluid is strongly recommended - it keeps the bit cool, extends its life, and produces cleaner holes.

Why does my drill bit keep snapping when drilling metal?

Most commonly from excessive pressure or speed. Let the bit do the work and keep the speed low. Snapping also happens when drilling thin sheet metal without backing it with scrap wood.